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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.